Pick by platform. Off-Road Kit — Jeep Wrangler JL, JLU, Gladiator JT, and mid-size trucks whose underbodies are broken up by skid plates or exhaust routing. Mid-Size Kit — Tacoma, Ranger, Colorado, Bronco with flatter rockers. Full-Size Kit — F-150, Silverado, RAM, Tundra. Each ships with the exact section count and lengths that layout needs, so there's nothing to measure and nothing left over. Not sure how flat your rocker is? Look for a clear run of about 27" behind the front wheel — if you have it, take the Mid-Size Kit; if a skid plate or exhaust breaks it up, take the Off-Road Kit.

Traditionally, rock lights are pods mounted inside the wheel wells to light the ground and the rocks you're crawling over, while underglow is a strip under the body, mostly for looks. This kit does both jobs — and it's built as sections, not pods. Pods are point sources: each one throws a bright spot with a dark gap beside it, which is why an eight-pod kit still leaves most of your rocker in shadow. A 17" or 27" section lights that whole run evenly, so you get one continuous carpet instead of a dotted line. Same mounting points, same 12V feed, far more usable light on the ground.

Two options. Most vehicles fall into one of the three layouts even when the badge isn't listed — as a rule of thumb, a clear run of about 27" behind the front wheel means the Mid-Size Kit works, and if a skid plate or exhaust breaks that run up, the Off-Road Kit is the one. Or build it yourself: every length, the control box and the 2m extension leads are sold separately, so you can lay out a van, a buggy or a trailer exactly how you want. Light sections ship as matched L/R pairs, so ordering one covers both sides. Message us with your year, make and model if you'd rather we work it out for you.

Two. Every module SKU ships as a matched pair — one left-handed section and one right-handed section, with the pigtail leads exiting the correct way for each side of your rig. So ordering one 17" module gets you two 17" sections, enough to do both sides. That's why our part numbers end in "LR" — Left / Right. The control box and the extension leads are the exception: those are sold individually.

Yes — always. The control box (A500-UGL-CB-6A) is the brain of the system: it powers the modules, runs all 256 modes, and connects the app, remote and signal wires. The lights won't turn on without it. Every ready-made kit already includes one, so you're covered. If you're building your own layout from individual modules, add exactly one control box to your cart — a single 6A box drives an entire underbody, whether that's one section or ten.

It depends on your state. Red and blue light visible from the front or rear is restricted almost everywhere on public roads, and some states restrict flashing patterns while in motion. Parked, on private property and off-road, you're generally free to run any color or mode. Check your state's vehicle code — we can't give legal advice for where you live.

Only if you want to. Every kit ships with both self-tapping screws and heavy-duty straps. The housing is a rigid 2.5mm aluminum channel, so a screw through it gives you a permanent, rattle-free mount — that's the setup we'd run on a dedicated trail rig. Prefer not to put a hole in your frame? Strap them on instead; the channel is stiff enough that it won't sag or spin the way a flexible strip does. Plenty of people screw the long rocker runs and strap the corners.

That's what the 2.5mm aluminum channel and full-depth resin are for. The housing takes the strike and the solid potting means there's no hollow space for the impact to reach the board through. If a module does fail, you replace that one section — not the whole kit; all three lengths are sold separately.

No. You pick the mode once in the app or on the remote, then the control box's own microphone listens to the sound around it. You can also use your phone's mic if you'd rather. Either way, the lights react to actual sound, not to a preset pattern.

Yes — the kit powers up with the key at ACC, so the engine doesn't have to be turning. The system runs on 11–14V and is happiest at 12.5V, which is what your charging system delivers with the engine running. Parked with the engine off, a healthy battery starts around 12.6V and falls as you draw from it, so short stretches at camp are fine. A long night on battery alone will dim the output and eventually drop below the operating range — for extended use, idle the engine or run an auxiliary battery. Pull the key and the kit goes fully dead, so it never drains the battery overnight.

You replace that section, not the kit. Modules chain together with sealed connectors, so a damaged one unplugs and a new one drops in without disturbing the rest of the run — that's the advantage of a chained system over a single bonded strip. Replacement sections are sold on their own in all three lengths, so you buy the one you need — not another kit. If you're adding sections rather than replacing one, keep each side under 72W — a 6A box handles up to 9 × 11", 5 × 17" or 3 × 27" sections per side.

Each module has a 15cm lead at both ends. Leaving roughly 30cm (12") between modules lets those leads meet and route along the rail without being pulled tight or looped up where they can snag. It also spaces the light evenly instead of bunching it.

Three are required: green (+), blue (−) and brown (accessory). The brown lead is the kit's power gate — it ties into your accessory circuit so the lights come alive with the key and go fully dead when you pull it, and nothing turns on without it. The four signal wires — black (left turn), yellow (right turn), red (brake) and white (reverse) — are each optional. Leave one unconnected and that function simply won't trigger; the lights and all 256 modes still work.